Cape Cod Times - The West End’s good taste comes through in food, ambience
Cooking local with everything from honey to greens is part of The West End’s secret to quality meals, but the rest comes from having experienced chefs who know how to pair flavors.
The West End is beautifully decorated, relaxing and interactive
We chatted with our server, Grace, who not only answered questions about the high-end dishes (first off, there are no snails in The West End’s signature lobster escargot), but also explained where each of the local ingredients came from, something she knew well because part of her job was to pick up supplies at local farms.
Cooking local with everything from honey to greens is part of The West End’s secret to quality meals, but the rest comes from having experienced chefs who know how to pair flavors.
Take the Brussels sprouts appetizer ($11) roasted with local honey and then topped with pickled red onions. The two are meant to be eaten together because the sweet and acidic flavors are perfectly balanced. While tasty, the Brussels sprouts were a little well-done, more carbonized than caramelized in places the night we tried them.
We also shared the Cape Cod Lobster Escargot appetizer ($18 market price the night we visited), which consisted of tender chunks of sweet lobster meat cut to just the right size to fit in an escargot dish. The lobster was perched in little pools of herb butter, topped with panko bread crumbs and finished with a slice of grilled toast. It was a delicious, easy-to-eat presentation for lobster lovers like me.
For an entree, I ordered the braised beef short rib ($28) because it is a labor-intensive dish that I am unlikely to make at home, especially in the summer as it requires hours of cooking. The meat came boneless and fork-tender. It was nestled atop a scoop of creamy roast garlic mashed potatoes with a velvety smooth veal demi-glace. Diced carrots, cooked soft on the outside but firm inside, dotted the dish.
My friend Ann had the porcini gnocchi ($25), consisting of restaurant-made potato dumplings flavored with mushrooms served in a light and creamy sauce with spinach and sundried tomatoes. The tomatoes added a dash of sweetness and saltiness to the delicious sauce. The dumplings were tender, although a little doughy.
We chose our dinners from the 10 supper entrees. But there are quite a few other offerings, including appetizers, salads and sandwiches with a fried dogfish choice. Although the restaurant is year-round, the menu is seasonal, so it’s worth checking out online occasionally. The West End also serves a Sunday jazz brunch.
Speaking of music, at one point during dinner, I could swear The West End switched from recorded to live music – at just the right volume so conversation was still easy. Ann and I took a quick look around, but couldn’t see musicians. Grace, our server, explained that the music was in the lounge (a sunken space beyond the bar at the other end of the building) and was piped in.
When they announced plans to open The West End, owners David Noble (Embargo) and Jen Villa (The Local Juice) said they were looking to return the 235-seat restaurant to its original elegance, and they’ve succeeded. The dining room is airy, with gleaming dark wood and oversized modern chandeliers. The booth backs are fabric-covered and match the lounge furniture. The West End advertises its recipe as “two parts local, one part social, dash of vintage.” That’s an apt description for a delicious and classy place.
And, like owners of The Paddock which occupied this spot next to The Melody Tent for years, folks at The West End accommodate concert-goers with valet parking and a reservation that gives you time to enjoy dinner and make the show.